réglage du mat

bonjour
Je recherche des conseils sur les réglages du gréement:
Doit on mettre du pré cintrage, de la quete, la tension de haubanage etc
Si vous avez des petits conseils je suis tout à votre écoute.
Merci

Hello,

Bonjour !
Perso mon mât est réglé sur le trou du centre au niveau du pied de mât.
Je ne saurais pas te dire quelle est la quête exacte (je ne l'ai jamais mesurée) mais mes galhaubans sont très souqués, ce qui est plus performant à mon avis en régate. Les D1 (bas-haubans) le sont moins, juste ce qu'il faut pour qu'ils ne soient pas trop mous sous le vent.
Mes haubans intermédiaires (D2) sont justes tendus.
Au total, le précintrage est modéré mais le gréement est bien rigide.
J'ai pris le parti de ne pas détendre le gréement en hiver depuis que plusieurs pros m'ont dit que cela avait l'effet inverse de ce que l'on attendait, car cela fait travailler encore plus la structure du bateau. Mais je suis preneur de vos conseils à ce sujet !

Bonjour
Merci pour cette réponse.
Serrage blindé des galhaubans ne te donne pas trop de pré cintrage surtout que tu indiques une tension léger des D1.
Autre question , as tu une cale d’étambrai et si oui sais tu l'épaisseur.

Pour ce qui en est détendre ou pas le gréement , personnellement je n'y suis pas favorable car si le bateau reste sur l'eau , il est ballotté par la houle et les vents forts hivernaux ce qui le fait travailler encore plus.

Volistiquement votre

Je ne suis pas sûr d'avoir une ou des cales, mais je pense que oui, car mon 31.7 souffre de la maladie des 31.7 : le pont n'est pas posé au centre de la coque !
Donc je crois que le gréeur a mis un truc pour rattraper l'axe.
Sur mon 33.7 je suis certain d'en avoir mis, mais là j'avoue je ne me souviens plus...
Effectivement très juste : un bateau à l'eau voit son gréement travailler... Encore un argument pour ne pas détendre...

Réglage du mat du First 31.7...
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First 31.7 Rig Tuning Guide.
This tuning guide is intended to get your First 31.7 rig set-up to a base set-up and is targeted at people new to racing the First 31.7. It is by no means definitive but provides a good start point.
The principles of rig tuning are straight forward, however, if you are at all unsure of what you
are doing you should consult a professional rigger.
Knowing the pre-bend cut into you mainsail is key for the initial set-up of the rig. Here are some sailmaker target pre-bend numbers we are aware of but you should check with you sailmaker.
30mm – Quantum
50mm – Is a reasonable start point if you don’t know the pre-bend cut into your mainsail
65mm – Banks
100mm – North, Sobstad
One other key fact you need to establish is how your bottlescrews are threaded. On Electra The Caps and D1s have left handed threads – tensioned counter-clockwise (thread looking from above) and loosened Clockwise, while the D2s are right handed thread.
When tensioning or loosening the standing rigging, it is best to do a couple of turns at a time on one side and then perform the same adjustment on the opposite side of the boat. This will ensure that you don’t over-stress or over-tighten the rig and keep the mast straight and in column.
The First 31.7 comes with two mast variants. The majority of boats are supplied with the LR rig (P=1080) and all the 31.7s I have ever seen have this rig.
There is a larger rig HR or Lake rig with P=1120 of which I am aware there are a few in Finland. This guide is for the First 31.7 LR rig with some guestimates to help those with the HR.

Step 1. Reset the Mast Tune
Completely let off the kicker, mainsheet.
Take up the backstay (pataras) tension to support the mast.
Get up the mast to the first set of spreaders and loosen the D2s to the limit of the threads.
Come down the mast.
Completely let off the backstay (pataras).
Slacken off the D1s to the limit of their threads.
Lower the boom on to the deck (don’t remove it just lower it).
Loosen off the Caps shroud (hauban)s until they are slack.
For an initial set-up, the mast foot should be in the middle hole (aft hole for HR rig) front of mast 65 cm from bulkhead (67 cm for HR rig).
IF YOU NEED TO MOVE THIS I SUGGEST YOU CONTACT A PROFESSIONAL

Step 2. Set and Measure the Rake:
Attach the genoa halyard (drisse) to the tack fitting and tension to keep the mast in place
while you adjust the forestay (étai) length.
The rake (set by the forestay (étai) length) together with the Cap, D1 and D2 tensions will determin the final pre-bend.
For the standard First 31.7 LR rig set the rake for your target mainsail pre-bend. 30-50mm pre-bend
3rd chainplate (cadène) hole from top
222cm forestay (étai) measurement
3 degrees rake
60-70mm pre-bend
2nd chainplate (cadène) hole from top
226cm forestay (étai) measurement
3.5 degrees rake
80-100mm pre-bend
1st Chainplate (cadène) hole from top
230cm forestay (étai) measurement
4 degrees rake
For the First 31.7 HR rig set the rake for your target mainsail pre-bend.
30-50mm Prebend
5th chainplate (cadène) hole from top
214cm forestay (étai) measurement
2 degrees rake
60-70mm pre-bend
4th chainplate (cadène) hole from top
218cm forestay (étai) measurement
2.5 degrees rake
80-100mm pre-bend
3rd Chainplate (cadène) hole from top
222cm forestay (étai) measurement
3 degrees rake
Check the chainplate (cadène) hole position gives the correct forestay (étai) measurement.
If you have a bottlescrew forestay (étai), this is the easiest way check you have the correct rake. Attach a tape measure (fiberglass or steel) to the genoa halyard (drisse).
Adjust the halyard (drisse) so that the tape measure reads zero at the top of the gooseneck
black band.
Swing the tape measure forward and measure to where the stem head fitting meets the deck. Adjust the forestay (étai) length of your First 31.7 until you have the required rake setting.


Step 3. Centre the rig.
Tighten the cap shroud (hauban) bottlescrews to hand-tight.
Tie a 1-2m length of shockcord (sandow) into a loop.
Attach this loop to the main halyard (drisse).
Attach a spare shackle (manille) to the shockcord (sandow) loop.
Adjust the main halyard (drisse) so that by tensioning the shockcord (sandow) you can reach
the toe rail adjacent (rail de fargue) to the 1st stanchion aft of the mast.
The main halyard (drisse) of the First 31.7 is usually offset to port by the thickness of the
sheave (réa).
To allow for this offset, measure in the width of the sheave (réa) (approx 1 cm) from the inside
of the foot of starboard cap-shroud (hauban) with a china graph pencil.
Stretch the shockcord (sandow) using the shackle (manille) and align to this starboard pencil mark.
Measure the starboard length of the shockcord (sandow).
Now stretch the shockcord (sandow) tight to the foot of the port cap shroud (hauban).
Measure the port shockcord (sandow) length.
When these port and starboard shockcord (sandow) lengths are identical the mast is vertical
in the boat.
If they are different, tighten the cap shroud (hauban) of the side that measures the longest
until they are the same.


Step 4. Tension First 31.7 the Rig
Tighten the caps to 15% breaking load (44 on the PT-2M Loose gauge).
Tighten the D1s to 6% breaking load (32 on the PT-2M Loos gauge).
Tighten the D2s to hand tight.
Step 5. Check and adjust the Pre-Bend
Target Pre-Bend Settings for the First 31.7 by sailmaker:
30 mm – Quantum
50 mm – Is a reasonable start point if you don’t know the pre-bend cut into your mainsail
65 mm – Banks
100 mm – North, Sobstad
Now read my separate article on how check and adjust the Pre-Bend.
If you cannot achieve the required pre-bend and D tension for the rake, you need to go back
to step 2, alter the rake and try again.
If the pre-bend is incorrect, it is most likely that you will need more pre-bend as sailmaker will
err on the side of too much rather than too little pre-bend.
Also older or stretched sails may require more pre-bend. If you need more pre-bend then
lengthen the forestay (étai) to the next setting and try again.

Step 6. This is enough to get you out on the water
Tune the mast in the normal manner under sail.
Remember that this is just the observations and opinions of a keen amateur, and that if you
are at all unsure of what you are doing you should consult a professional rigger.